Nigeria Photo Contest Third Entry: Landscape

Dear Readers,

Make sure to COMMENT on the pictures you like so that I can tally your responses.

This photograph is from Laine Strutton, taken taken on the banks of the Obuasi River
(name of the village unknown) in the Niger Delta.

This could technically also fall under the people category, but I'm putting it in landscape for now.

Hope you like this one!

Best,
Alena

A Few Good Blog Posts

Hey all,

Things are a little crazy here with my project picking up. Things are on track more or less.

Blogging seems to be the gift that keeps on giving...I click one post, that leads me to another, and I read other new and interesting things.

What's your favorite blog? Why? What makes a good blog?

Here are a few posts that caught my eye:

Time for Africans to Explore Africa

I saw this article through another blog: Africa Unchained

It also led me to: Top Places to Visit in West and Central Africa Why isn't Nigeria on this list? There are tons of neat places in Nigeria! Even parts of the Niger Delta are physically very beautiful!

Also there is: How to Write about Africa. This post is hilarious. I got this through a friend's blog: Mitchell Sipus

Hope you enjoy!

Best,
Alena

A Few Good Reads

Dear all,

I've been trying to stay current while out in the Niger Delta.

Articles I like:

Africa's Eastern Promise by Deborah Brautigam (this is one of the most even-keel articles I've seen on China in Africa)

Resume Search Optimization (okay, so I'm a resume nerd, but this was a neat explanation of the different between online applications and offline resumes)

"Africa's Children" is a series following 10 children from birth and tracking them as part of a test of the Millenium Development Goals.

An installment by a friend of mine: "Nigeria: Confidant Martins" by Shyamantha Asokan

Nigeria's banks: Lagos in limbo, also by Shyamantha Asokan

Books I've read while here that I recommend:

Untapped: The Scramble For Africa's Oil Wealth by John Ghazvinian. (He has a great sense of humor, examines this problem from many angles, AND his economic explanation of the oil curse is one of the clearest I've seen)

Things Fall Apart by Chinua Achebe (this is technically a reread)

Say You're One of Them by Uwem Akpan (a little depressing, a series of stories told from the perspective of children, but not very happy stories)

China into Africa (a very good collection of a wide range of articles and perspectives)

What books do you recommend?

Best,
Alena

3 Months Into My Field Experience in Nigeria

Dear Readers,

This post could also be titled 'what I should have packed for Nigeria'

If I could start over again, I would have packed:
A tool kit
A how to fix anything book
easymac (my auntie sent me a carton of them)
A how to clean anything book
peanut butter
cheese
more DVDs and books
roach traps
cool little gifts for children

Things I am glad that I packed:
TUMs (yay calcium)
Lonely Planet Healthy Africa Travel Guide
multivitamins
my skype headset
my portable dvd player

Things I should have left at home:
some of the bug spray (i brought a lot)

best thing I bought early into my trip:
blackberry. guaranteed internet. cant be beat
portable sheets

best first lesson:
start with humor. nigerian's will out-confront me every time, so if i start with humor, a joke, whatever, people are way nicer to me (thanks cyril)

hope these notes are helpful to any other travelers on the continent!

best,
alena

Have Passport, Will Have Shared National Identity?

Dear Readers,

After a series of unfortunate mini-crises, I nearly had a meltdown. I really really need to have 1 day in Nigeria where no lecherous married man hits on me, no one tries to scam me and nothing breaks (I have a somewhat cynical theory that when a Nigerian tries to fix something, they start by breaking it more...).

Part of this breakdown is my newfound inability to communicate with my countrymen (Americans) about this experience (working in Nigeria, for Nigerians, with Nigerians...there are maybe a handful of foreigners in my temporary town).

Now, don't take this the wrong way, but it doesn't take much to be an 'Africa expert' in the US. I'd be curious to see how many such experts had spent more than 2 continuous months in an African country. I've only been to two--but I'm definitely the only American living in my town. Some pass through periodically, mostly oil workers and wayward academics.

The funny thing about being so isolated from other expats, is that I feel increasingly uncomfortable around my fellow expats--especially the ones who are just here to visit, or live within a cocoon (albeit a cocoon I sometimes envy--I'd do a lot for some real Chinese food, or regular access to decent bread and cheese).

I was asked by a friend who lives in the US, in the same wealthy suburb I spent one year of high school in (note to other expats, growing up moving around is great for kids--but please don't move them their senior year of hs), and I realized that I had no way to describe my experience to him.

This must sort of be what veterans feel--that even if people were interested and asked questions--you wouldn't know what to say. I can't even watch some US tv shows anymore because the ideal world depicted in those shows is so far from the reality...even the US reality, much less the Nigerian one.

Does embracing diversity of thought and culture mean that I'm actually more American?

I don't feel very Nigerian--I'm not. However, I do feel less and less in common with Americans, despite my passport.

I hope I learn enough here to be able to communicate back there.

Best,
Alena

In Nigeria, everything is Now or Never.

Dear Readers,

I am now 2 months into my consulting work in Nigeria. I've learned a lot in that time and I'm pleased to say that my project is on track.

I also am pleased to note that the more difficult things I encounter, the more determined I am to overcome them. It is very good to learn these things about oneself.

I have limits, just like any other creature on this earth, but thanks to my supportive loved ones and my Buddhist practice, I've risen above and am ever more resolved to live by my principles.

One thing I've learned about doing business in Nigeria is that everything is now or never. If someone shows up to fix something in your home or office, they won't call ahead, they'll just show up. If you are on your way out of the door, they'll insist on doing whatever it is right now, and there's no opportunity to reschedule to a time that is convenient.

The same thing goes for official meetings with VIPs. If there's an opening in time, you have to jump on it, go as fast as you can to it, and if you delay, you'll miss it. Yes, there is an official appointment schedule, but its very challenging to be on it, and its not the way to get the meetings you need.

Nigeria is Now or Never. It's all about seizing the window of opportunity. It can't be good on the blood pressure. :)

Best,
Alena

40% of the African Continent's Savings Are Held Abroad

Dear Readers,

I didn't really like this article, "Why foreign aid and Africa don't mix
By Robert Calderisi" partially because of its vast over-simplication of the aid industry and its write off of the African continent. It is not all doom and gloom.

The most interesting paragraph was this:

"The Blair Commission Report on Africa in 2005 reported that 70,000 trained professionals leave Africa every year, and until they -- and the 40 percent of the continent's savings that are held abroad -- start coming home, we need to use aid more restrictively."

I'm a big fan of Africans investing Africa. Also, in some African countries, there is plenty of money to use for their own national development. It's a question of what those elites do with their money and privilege.

Or this set of paragraphs:

"Uganda has recently discovered oil and gas deposits but has gone on a spending spree, reportedly ordering fighter planes worth $300 million from Russia, according to a recent report in the New York Times. Does a government that shows such wanton disregard for common sense or even good taste really have the moral basis for insisting on more help with AIDS?"

Now, there are two problems with this thought. One, is it the responsibility of a state/country to take care of its people? I'd say yes, but not everyone would. Two, the US spends 15 times more money on defense than education. Who are we to talk about spending wisely?

Would love to hear your thoughts!
Alena

A Week of Interesting News!

Dear readers,

I feel like I've read a lot of interesting news (and blog) articles this week. Just to share a few with you:

Egypt after Mubarak by Amy Levine at Global Security Monitor, the blog for the Center for Advanced Defense Studies.

India's Israeli-Arab tightrope walk, by Ramananda Sengupta at Al Jazeera, which for those of you in the States who are wary, is the most read newspaper in Israel. This is the kind of stuff I wanted to learn in grad school, but everything was so US-focused. I want to know how China or India or Brazil or Turkey feel about the Middle East Crisis, or Sudan or global warming.


US Africa Command digs in, plans to give more aid to Amisom. By Cosmas Butunyi at The East African. This is about the continued US/AU engagement in Somalia. This article also covers US interests in the Sahel, and counter-terrorism efforts on the Continent. Also good for an overview of recent AFRICOM activities.

The Conversation on Race at The Atlantic by Ta-Nehisi Coates.

African first ladies discuss strategies against cervical, breast cancers. A feel-good piece, but interesting either way. At Xinhua based out of their Accra office.

Enjoy your reading! The diversity of options and quality of writing make me hopeful for the news industry!!

Best,
Alena

Day 3: From Rags to Riches...Sort of

Ten Days ago, I had less than $10 in the bank. I was surviving on my part-time job and the generosity of the good relationships in my life. Last night, I was being picked up with my boss by drivers with a Mercedes SUV, blasting club music, and taken to where the G was hanging out with the MF at the Villa.

Beautiful marble, very nice champagne, and a fairly productive strategizing session. How fast the world turns and changes things around. I think I was more disoriented by the change in my fortunes (and how careful one needs to be around the powerful) than the champagne.

Despite my favorite World Cup Team (Portugal) losing during the meeting, the whole thing had me in hysterics inside.

I’m excited by my project, I am having a very nice time in Abuja with my extended friendship network, and even got in some daimoku with the local Buddhists.

I am also grateful for my mix of experience in witnessing abject poverty, experiencing relative poverty, experiencing great opportunity and being around great wealth. Diverse life experiences do help, sometimes.

I dated a millionaire once, for a year or so…which exposed me to prejudices I did not know I had at the time (I was so mean to him! Poor guy). BUT it also showed me the good and bad sides of the “Good Life” and the limits of it. I’ve also had a millionaire propose (same guy) to me and I’ve said no, so the Nigerians can’t buy me, or charm me with money.

The other thing I’m grateful for is my 2+ years in New York City and my BS meter. So, I’m not easily impressed and I am not blinded by the glitz. I’m not even tempted to try that life. I can sip my champagne, leave the second glass untouched, and just get my job done.

Either way, the G, ME, my boss and I were very productive. I think the project will get off the ground nicely.

Still, it’s been quite the whirlwind! Thank goodness for good friends! Also, thank goodness for the BS meter…keeps a girl grounded!

Best,
Alena

Alena is headed to Nigeria!

Dear Readers,

As you may have read over the last month or two, I am headed to Nigeria to do a 6 month consultancy. I leave tomorrow.

It involves a challenging project, in a challenging environment, at a challenging period for Nigeria. It is a youth savings project, focused on the idea that the habit of savings and the development of assets can and will transform the life of poor youth. The habit of savings is correlated with improved health, better outlook on life, avoidance of risky behaviors, and the ability to make long-term life plans. The development of assets provides these young people with opportunities to pursue schooling and business opportunities, without the onus of paying it back (like in microcredit).

The Bayelsa State Government has taken on this project, and is committed to doubling everything the kids save (up to a cap), provide financial training to the youths and their families, and to test this approach to alleviating poverty in their community.

Its a tough project: it involves money, logistics, kids, education, etc.

It's a tough environment: Bayelsa is in the Niger Delta, which is where Nigeria's oil comes from. There are ongoing, low-lying militant conflicts, underserved populations, poor roads, pollution, heavy rainfall, extreme heat, etc.

It's a tough time: Elections are in April 2011, Nigeria just gained a new leader (President Goodluck Jonathan), who is from Bayelsa. There is plenty of local electoral strife and violence. Also, there is the question of what will the new President do about the amnesty proceedings with the militants?

What's in it for me? A life-changing experience. The opportunity to test some of the theories I learned in graduate school. If the project is even halfway successful, it's an important step forward for the region.

Wish me luck!

Stay tuned to find out more!
Best,
Alena

More on China in Nigeria: Challenges Brew Opportunities

Hey all,

I always find it interesting to know what other people are reading. Let me know what news you're following.

This was sent to me by my mother:

In Africa for mutual growth This describes the Chinese interest in Nigeria from a Chinese perspective. It also is a refreshing step away from the doom and gloom approach of Western Media.

Ma Chao gives some good advice: "The Chinese should learn to engage with civil society and tribal leaders. Chinese firms venturing into Nigeria should learn to deal with trade unions, NGOs and the media."

I'd also like to point out that the successful Chinese business people mentioned in the article, have all been in Nigeria for 20+ years. That's not the 'new wave' of China 'taking over the world.'

Chinese investment opportunities exist in infrastructure and Chinese products need to improve in their quality.

Another interesting quote: "The Nigerian government and politicians are keen to see more Chinese firms invest in Nigeria. Compared with their Western counterparts, Chinese companies are more sincere in developing together with Africa. They usually make great efforts to train local staff and transfer technology to their partners.

"In half a century, Nigeria has barely acquired any technology in its dealings with the West. But the Chinese are ready to transfer theirs. That's why we began looking East for opportunities", says Ibrahim Mantu, senator and former deputy president of Nigeria's senate."

Thanks Mom for the article!

Best,
Alena

What should I learn from Indiana Jones?

Hey all,

I'm about to go on an adventure. The Indiana Jones theme song has been playing in my head all week. I'm going to spend 6 months as a consultant in Yenagoa, Nigeria.

There will be swamps, rivers, travel will be by speed boat and there are real crocodiles. There's an election, political intrigue, accusations of corruption. The stage is set for drama!

Now the important question! What to pack? What would Indiana Jones do? What should I know? How will this work? What shoes should I wear?

Other important details: insurance? No one seems willing to insure people who go to Nigeria. Go figure.

Health?

Fun? I know the Nigerians will be more than able of keeping me busy for six months. So I'm not too worried.

But what gifts do I bring in case I meet kings, chiefs and princes?

I will definitely need a cool hat and a bull-whip...
Send me your thoughts and advice!

Best,
Alena

How do you divide up Africa?

Hey all,

I went to an event at the World Bank, called Yes! Africa Can!, an event attempting to address the dearth of positive events in DC that discuss the continent of Africa.

It was a bit of a mixed event--some of it good, some of it interesting, some of it atrocious. I don't want to make any enemies, so I won't name panelists, but the first group mostly named 1 small success story (without telling us what made it a success), and then complained about how difficult 'Africa' is. There was even the suggestion that, since African countries can't run their own economies (these were their words, not mine), that African countries should rent coast lines or areas with minerals to other 'more productive' countries to take over and manage.

I don't see how this would address governance issues, empower countries to have control over their own wealth (or lack of it). In fact, the first panel left me somewhat horrified...at the idea that neo-colonialism is the answer and we're all going to he** in a hand basket. The interesting part of being at a World Bank event, as opposed to a US government organization, no mention was made of AFRICOM.

The second panel was a relief from the first. The first speaker brought up the fact that discussing Africa as a whole was difficult and often not very productive.

So, he divided Africa into 3 groups: Oil/Resource rich countries (ex: Nigeria, Angola, DRC), High Performers (almost all democracies and sources of fairly dynamic growth) and Low-Performers (almost all dictatorships, where quality of life and other norms have been steadily declining). I really would like to see this list.

What do you think of this as an approach? How do you tend to think of the continent?

As of yet, I've only been to two African countries, both Anglophone, both in West Africa, and both like night and day to each other. So I will reserve judgement until I've got more to go on.

The speaker also brought up an interesting point. Many people see various life-quality indicators on Africa remaining about the same for the last decade. The speaker maintained that it is really that Group 2 (see above) were steadily improving and Group 3 (also see above) were steadily declining, effectively cancelling each other on any graphical representation of change of the whole continent. I think this speaks to not grouping the continent as a whole, in general, unless you are, say the African Union.

What do you think?

Best,
Alena

What's it take to have a successful women's movement in Africa?

Moral clarity, persistence, and patience (According to Lehman Gbowee (the now-famous figure from Pray the Devil Back to Hell).
I would add: creativity and courage

Most of this post comes from reading a great blog post "It's Time to End Africa's Mass Rape"

The Liberian story, like many others, really brings home the ability of women within a society to completely transform a war into peace. I highly recommend seeing Pray the Devil Back to Hell.

I know its not necessarily the case that women automatically change the nature of a conflict, but its great to see the impact of these tough, strong, paradigm-changing ladies.

Movements to watch:

Women Peace and Security Network Africa (WIPSEN-Africa)

Women of Zimbabwe Arise

African Women’s Development Fund

The African Feminist Forum

Peace is Loud!

I've always been fascinated by the stereotype of 'quiet' women. Sure, I've met one or two, but I've been fortunate (yay Wellesley!) to have known many warm sisterhoods and some pretty feisty ladies.

Best,
Alena

Africa Reboots: Forces rally against poor governance

Dearest readers,

I ran across a great article: Africa Reboots, by, of all people BONO.

It stresses the idea that two forces, normally opposing, are rallying around poor governance and weak institutions. Both feel that they suffer from corruption and that weak states negatively effect their respective flocks.

I think this is an interesting and valid point of view. I do, however, think that at least the corporate interests have created much of this problem. Bribing from the low to the high becomes the norm, when all parties allow it to occur. Cops don't become corrupt by themselves. Neither do presidents, ministers or anyone else.

"Entrepreneurs know that even a good relationship with a bad government stymies foreign investment; civil society knows a resource-rich country can have more rather than fewer problems, unless corruption is tackled." This is a pretty accurate description.

So, can civil society and business unite? Can these two forces push governments to be more accountable, less corrupt and to think of the bigger picture?

Some interesting figures were introduced in the article, described by Bono:

John Githongo, Kenya’s famous whistleblower, started a group called Inuka.

DJ Rowbow: His station, Ghetto Radio, was a voice of reason when the volcano of ethnic tension was exploding in Kenya in 2008.

Youssou N’Dour — musician in Senegal who best exemplified the new rules. Maybe the greatest singer on earth — owns a newspaper and is in the middle of a complicated deal to buy a TV station.

Luisa Diogo, the country’s former prime minister, who is now the matriarch in this mesmerizing stretch of eastern Africa, leads Activa, a women’s group that, among other things, helps entrepreneurs get seed capital.

Mo Ibrahim, a Sudanese entrepreneur who made a fortune in mobile phones.

On another note, President Goodluck Jonathan seems to have his thoughts together on his interview with CNN's Christiane Amanpour this past week. I think his statements about political opponents 'let them come! anyone who wants to, can come!' is an excellent attempt to undermine opposition--if you seem like they can't ruffle your feathers, that President Jonathan has nothing to fear--is more effective than just bluster and criticism.

I read a few articles analyzing the interview, but I think it's worth watching in its own right.

Hope all is well with you.
Alena